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Once you have a good workprint, stick it on the wall and live with it for at least 24 hours before going back to it. Only judge fine results from DRY paper because drydown shifts the hue by about 1CC to 2CC. Look at the midtones only when guessing corrections: the highlights are less sensitive to filter changes and the shadows are more sensitive to filter changes. It'll take a while to get a feel for how much to adjust the colour to correct any particular cast. You should make colour test-strips, iterating an important bit of scene through (say) 4 different colour settings by some step (10CC being quite coarse, 2CC being moderately fine). The reason is that the enlarger bulb has a different (warmer) colour when heating/cooling at switch-on/off, so an exposure with one heat/expose/cool cycle has different colour balance from an exposure made up of 4 of those cycles. Density test-strips are made similarly to how you would with B&W but you must expose each section of the strip just ONCE only, you can't expose them cumulatively. Then fix the density again (to maybe 0.2 stop?) because the colour changes will have affected it. Get the density in the ballpark (half-stop iteration is more than fine enough), then fine-adjust the colour. To get a good print takes a little practise. The bleach part might grow grey floaty mould in the long term (photographically irrelevant, just scoop it out before you do any replenishment) but a splash of Listerine or formalin will prevent that. The bleach does NOT work separately from the fix, they must be mixed together into a blix working-solution. after making a 16x20 you would replenish the dev with 60mL and the blix with 30mL of each of bleach and fix. When replenishing, you replenish equally from the two sources, e.g. mix the bleach concentrate into 5L and the fix concentrate into another 5L which, if mixed, would be 10L of blix-replenisher. What I do is make up two half-solutions, i.e. I bought the 4x5L kit and made up 5L about 18mo ago, it still works the same as the day I made it.īleach eats fix, so mixing up all the blix is a not-great idea. Make up the dev with distilled or spring (low oxygen and iron) water and store it in the 10L mylar bag-in-box that the water came in. Make up ALL of the developer replenisher from the concentrate as it keeps better as replenisher than conc. Replenish each with with 15mL of replenisher per 8x10 (don't forget the test strips!) I usually replenish on every second sheet and once extra at the start of a session. ![]() Make up 200mL of developer solution (requires starter) and blix solution. 4:00 wash (or about 0:10 if it's a test strip) 0:20 prewash recommended, but drain it well to prevent developer dilution for example a taped up led light (or two) in a kitchen darkroom that is barely noticeable, etc.Ĭhemical process is at 35C, continuous agitation: I've heard color printing requires complete darkness (except for the exposure), wondering how stringent this is. should I get control strips (I don't mind experimenting on a few sheets of paper) chemistry tips, temperature suggestions To start, I would like to enlarge 4x5 to 8x10, and contact print 8x10. 11x14 Beseler print drum and roller base Print File Custom Proofer with glass on a hinge over foam (will this make good contact prints?) Omega 4x5 enlarger, with 50mm, 90mm, 135mm lenses Kodak c 41 control strips archive#Kodak RA-4 Prime STB/Replenisher 10 Liters Item #: EKY8264442 $9.77įuji Crystal Archive Paper Type II 8x10 Lustre (100 Sheets) Item #: FJP8967 $42.07ĭid I forget anything or get anything wrong? Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Starter for Color Negative Paper - 80 Oz. Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT for Color Neg Paper makes 10l Item #: EKY8415580 $14.26 Not much of a problem for negative film, but can be for transparencies.I ordered these items from Unique Photo : I modified my cameras to use Alkaline cells, but the discharge curve is different. Like my old Minoltas, the only problem is a battery to power the meter since Mercury batteries are not longer made. All depends on what you want in your photo as to open the lens and decrease depth of field or work with time and film speed and keep the same stop. You could double the time at 400 for a similar result with the same f-stop) and the old expired high speed film is much more susceptible to degradation than lower speed films. Kodak c 41 control strips full#I’d go at least a full stop over or set the film ISO to 125 or 160 as each film speed is about 1/3 to 1/2 stop (a generalization is 1/2 of the film speed is on stop difference. Kodak c 41 control strips manual#I think you’ll find using old film that any manual camera or an automatic set for full manual will out perform auto as it will let you control the exposure. ![]()
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